Kathmandu - Week 2

Ladies night went well. I ended up going with another mom who lives just up the street from me in Boudha, so I didn't have the negotiate the taxis or try to find the place (in the dark) by myself. I also went to her house last Friday for a play group. She lives just up the road from us. On Saturday we went on a tour of Patan with Shedra students. Our tour guide was very good, and gave us an interesting perspective on the historical heritage, urban planning issues, and the cultural formation of the city. Yesterday, I went to a different play group in Lazimpat, near the British Embassy. I only met one other mom, though, since most of the adults there were nannies. After the playgroup, I walked into Thamel, which is the main tourist area in Kathmandu. All I can say about it was that there were more white people than I've seen in a while, and every other shop was either a trekking supply or a pashmina shop. It was good for me to get out and about on my own, though, and the taxi rides were uneventful, and easy to negotiate.

Now that we’re all caught up on our past week’s activities, a little exposition about where we live. Our flat is on the ground floor of one of two buildings on a small compound. The compound grounds are really lovely, although we haven’t spent much time in them yet, as they are currently a breeding ground for mosquitos. There’s a large garden in the front by the gate, and a larger garden in the back where our landlord’s house is. In our building, there is another flat upstairs, but it is currently unoccupied. There are also stairs leading to the roof, where we have a nice view of the Boudha stupa and the surrounding mountains. The building itself is all concrete, though we have lots of screened windows, so we get a lot of light and airflow. The floors are either covered with a very thin carpeting, tile, or a roll of vinyl flooring. There are a few oriental rugs about which are nice. Leela’s play area is on one of the rugs, since it offers a little more padding for when she falls.

We are located just off one of the main roads in Boudha, the Mahankahl road. Evidently it was just paved a few years ago, but it is now so riddled with pot holes (or, rather, huge gaping holes), that the taxis have to swerve from one side of the road to the other. We are near the Karma Dorje Gompa, and a mere 5 minute walk to the Institute. From the main road, turn in where the café with the FIFA World Cup sign is, and then left at the cow, cows, or calf, depending on the day. We’re the second gate on the right. Seriously though, there aren’t very many street names here, so giving or getting directions usually involves drawing a map, or telling people to turn near the big tree, or the man with the wooden leg.

The sights and sounds here are different from anywhere else I’ve ever been (not that I’ve traveled extensively or anything), and the range of relative wealth to poverty is striking. We’ve seen squalid ghettos – one small room (6’ x 6’) for a whole family with no windows or doors, and a mud floor; to a beautiful mansion with gardener, driver, cook, and housekeeper. And all of this can be within the same square kilometer! As well, there are plenty of homeless people about (we were accosted by two children at Swayambunath, who followed us around for a good 5 mintues). The other day a beggar followed me to my front gate, and when I locked the gate behind me (I was glad for the lock!), started yelling after me and banging on the gate.

When I wake up in the mornings, it’s to the sound of gongs from the surrounding monasteries, barking dogs, cows, birds, and traffic. Later in the morning the horns start, and you can hear them for most of the rest of the day. Not horns from the cars and motorbikes, although there’s plenty of that as well, but from the monasteries. There are like 2 dozen monasteries in Boudha, so I’m not sure from exactly where the horns are coming from – probably a combination of several locations.

Walking around, there are cars, motorbikes of various kinds, trucks, bicycles, and people everywhere, and all crowded along the same narrow roads. You really have to be careful to walk in a straight line, because vehicles (motorcycles especially), will cut around you super closely, and not always honk their horns. Because it’s monsoon season, the pollution isn’t as bad as it can be, but it’s still pretty bad, especially on the main streets. (We’re even considering getting a carbon filter mask for Leela, if we can figure out where to get one, and if she’ll wear it.) There is trash everywhere, sometimes scattered about, sometimes in huge piles right by the side of the road.

I wouldn't say we've gotten into a daily routine (at least Leela and I haven't), but life is getting more comfortable (if you can call it that). The thing I miss the most is not having to worry about the cleanliness of the water and food. Other than that, it's not all that different from life anywhere else.

That's it for now, Leela needs her mom!